The Samaná peninsula, in the country's north-east, is the greenest and most mountainous stretch of the Dominican coast, and its bay hosts one of the Caribbean's most remarkable natural events every winter.
The whales
Between mid-January and late March, up to several thousand North Atlantic humpback whales migrate from the cold waters of Iceland, Greenland and Canada to the Silver Bank and Samaná Bay to mate and calve. It has been a protected sanctuary since 1986.
Trips leave from the port at Santa Bárbara de Samaná. Observation is regulated: a limited number of boats at any one time, a minimum distance and a maximum period alongside any group. You see full breaches, tail slaps and frequently the males' song transmitted through the hull. In peak season the chance of a sighting is very high.
Cayo Levantado and Los Haitises
Cayo Levantado is the islet at the mouth of the bay, with white sand and palms; it is reached by launch and usually combined with the whale trip.
Los Haitises National Park, across the bay, is the year-round attraction: a maze of forest-covered limestone karst rising from the sea, dense mangroves, and caves holding Taíno pictographs — rock art by the island's original inhabitants. It is explored by boat, and the birdlife is notable.
Beaches and the waterfall
Playa Rincón, near Las Galeras, appears regularly among the Caribbean's best beaches: three kilometres of sand, palms, and a freshwater river emptying at one end. Playa Frontón and Playa Madama are reachable only on foot or by boat.
The Salto El Limón drops some fifty metres into a pool you can swim in. It is reached on horseback or on foot in about forty minutes along a muddy trail, from several starting points.
Practical
Samaná is about two and a half hours from Santo Domingo on the north-eastern motorway and has its own airport at El Catey. In whale season book ahead and choose accredited operators, who respect the distances and carry an interpreter guide. Morning departures usually find calmer water.
Las Terrenas
Las Terrenas is the peninsula town with the most life, with a strong European presence, French and Italian restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere very different from Punta Cana. It is the best base for exploring the area independently, and the road over the mountain from Sanchez gives one of the finest views in the country over the bay.